Ingredient substitutions: what to use when you're missing one thing

The recipe is half done, the oven is hot, and the one thing you need is not in the fridge. Most of the time there is a swap that works. Some of the time there isn't, and it is worth knowing which is which before you start.

ChefBook's Ask Chef chat answering a question about a substitute for feta

A substitution is a trade. You are swapping one ingredient’s job — acidity, fat, structure, thickening, lift — for something else that does most of that job. The swaps below are the ones that hold up in ordinary home cooking, with the ratio and, more usefully, the situation where each one lets you down.

The quick table

Missing Use instead (per amount in the recipe) Works for Fails when
Buttermilk, 1 cup 1 cup milk + 1 tbsp lemon juice or white vinegar, left 5–10 minutes Pancakes, scones, soda bread, marinades You need the thickness — thinned plain yogurt is closer
Heavy cream (cooking), 1 cup ¾ cup milk + ¼ cup melted butter Soups, pan sauces, mashed potatoes You need to whip it — it will never hold peaks
Egg (baking), 1 1 tbsp ground flaxseed + 3 tbsp water, rested 5 minutes; or ¼ cup unsweetened applesauce or mashed banana Muffins, brownies, quick breads, cookies Eggs are the structure — sponge cake, soufflé, meringue, custard — or the recipe uses more than 2
Cornstarch (thickening), 1 tbsp 2 tbsp all-purpose flour Gravy, stews, pie fillings You want a clear, glossy sauce — flour turns it opaque and needs a few minutes of simmering to lose its raw taste
Baking powder, 1 tsp ¼ tsp baking soda + ½ tsp cream of tartar Any batter you bake right away The batter has to wait — this mix starts working as soon as it gets wet
Self-rising flour, 1 cup 1 cup all-purpose flour + 1½ tsp baking powder + ¼ tsp salt Scones, biscuits, simple cakes The recipe also adds its own leavener — check you are not doubling up
Sour cream, 1 cup 1 cup plain Greek yogurt Dips, toppings, baking It goes into a boiling sauce — yogurt splits, so stir it in off the heat
Feta Ricotta salata (closest), or crumbled goat cheese Salads, pastries, baked dishes You need it to hold cubes — goat cheese is softer and less salty
Wine (in cooking), 1 cup 1 cup stock + about 1 tsp vinegar or lemon juice Braises, risotto, pan sauces The wine is the point of the dish — coq au vin is not coq au stock
Brown sugar, 1 cup 1 cup granulated sugar + 1 tbsp molasses (2 tbsp for dark brown) Cookies, sauces, glazes You have no molasses — plain white sugar works but cookies spread more and taste flatter

How to tell if a substitution will work

Before you swap, ask what the missing ingredient is doing in this recipe. The same ingredient can do different jobs in different dishes:

If the ingredient is doing one simple job, almost anything that does that job will work. If it is doing three jobs at once, look for a different recipe.

Swaps that rarely work

Some substitutions get repeated online but disappoint in practice:

Measuring substitutes accurately

Substitutions are where small measuring errors add up. Two habits help:

  1. Weigh when you can. A cup of flour can be anywhere from about 110 g to over 140 g depending on how it was scooped; King Arthur Baking’s ingredient weight chart uses 120 g. If you are swapping 2 tablespoons of flour for 1 of cornstarch, the difference barely matters. If you are rebuilding self-rising flour for a whole cake, it does.
  2. Swap one thing at a time. If the result goes wrong, you will know why.

If the recipe is in grams and your substitution ratios are in cups (or the other way round), see how to convert a European recipe to American measurements.

Asking about a specific recipe

General tables cover the common cases. The awkward ones — “can I use crème fraîche instead of mascarpone in this tiramisu?” — depend on the rest of the recipe.

In ChefBook, Ask Chef answers that kind of question with the recipe already in context, so it knows the other ingredients, the quantities and the method. Ask Chef is a Premium feature; free accounts get 5 uses of Premium features a week.

If the problem is a whole missing shopping list rather than one ingredient, flip the question round: find recipes that fit what you already have. The What Should I Cook wizard is free and ranks recipes by how many of your ingredients they use.

Questions people ask

Can I use milk instead of buttermilk?

Not on its own if the recipe uses baking soda — add 1 tablespoon of lemon juice or white vinegar per cup and leave it for 5–10 minutes first. In a recipe leavened only with baking powder, plain milk works, though the result is a little less tangy.

What is the best egg substitute for baking?

For one egg in muffins, brownies or quick breads, a flax egg (1 tbsp ground flaxseed + 3 tbsp water) is the most reliable. For a moister, sweeter bake, ¼ cup of applesauce or mashed banana. Neither replaces eggs in sponges, meringues or custards.

Can I substitute flour for cornstarch?

Yes, as a thickener: use twice as much flour as cornstarch and simmer for a few minutes so it loses its raw taste. Expect a cloudier sauce.

Does a substitution change the calories?

Usually a little, sometimes a lot — swapping cream for milk and butter barely moves it; swapping sour cream for Greek yogurt cuts it noticeably. If you track it, calculate the calories per serving after the swap, not before.

Keep every recipe in one place

ChefBook is free on the App Store and Google Play — save your first recipe today.

ChefBookFree · iOS & AndroidInstall